How to Read INCI — The 10 Red Flags on Every Cosmetic Label
What's really in your cream? A guide for everyone who wants to know.
Contents
- What is an INCI list anyway?
- How to read an INCI list correctly
- Red Flags #1–3: Parabens, Silicones & PEG Compounds
- Red Flags #4–6: Fragrance, Mineral Oils & Formaldehyde Releasers
- Red Flags #7–10: Sulfates, Triclosan, Nano-Particles & BHT/BHA
- Natural Cosmetics as a Clean Alternative
- What makes Moroccan skincare different
What is an INCI list anyway?
According to the EU Cosmetics Regulation, every cosmetic product sold in Europe must carry a complete list of ingredients — the so-called INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). This is not a voluntary statement, but a mandatory one. And yet, very few people read these tiny printed abbreviations on the back of their day cream.
INCI is a globally standardized system that designates every ingredient with a uniform Latin or English name. The word "Aqua" always stands for water, "Butyrospermum Parkii" for shea butter, "Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil" for argan oil. This standardization makes it possible to compare products from all over the world at a glance — if you know the language.
The real challenge: A single day cream can contain 30 to 60 different ingredients. Many of them are harmless or even skin-nourishing. A few are not. And these are often hidden in the middle of the list, where hardly anyone looks.
How to read an INCI list correctly
Before we get to the red flags, here are the basic rules: These four things will help you assess any INCI list in under two minutes.
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Pay attention to the order: The earlier a substance appears, the more of it is in the product. Anything that comes after a concentration of less than 1% (often from the last third of the list) is quantitatively minimal — but can still be effective or problematic.
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Estimate water content: If "Aqua" is high up, the product is heavily water-based. This is not bad per se, but it indicates that the active ingredient content is correspondingly lower. Many high-quality natural cosmetics completely forego water.
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Look for preservatives: They are almost always found at the end of the list because they are used in tiny amounts. Nevertheless, they are often the substances with the highest allergen potential.
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Recognize Perfume / Fragrance: The word "Parfum" or "Fragrance" is a collective term behind which up to 100 different chemical compounds can be hidden — without the obligation of individual disclosure. More on this below.
Red Flags #1–3: Parabens, Silicones & PEG Compounds
These three groups appear in the overwhelming majority of all conventional personal care products — from drugstores to luxury segments. Here's what you need to know:
Parabens
Recognizable by endings like -paraben: Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben. Parabens are synthetic preservatives that have been used in cosmetics for decades. The problem: They act like weak estrogens in the body (so-called endocrine disruptors) and have been detected in human breast tissue. While the EU has banned or restricted some parabens, the commonly used methyl and ethyl parabens are still legal. They are not recommended for children under three years of age and on the diaper area.
Silicones
Recognizable by endings like -siloxane, -cone, -conol: Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane. Silicones form a film over skin and hair, thereby simulating smoothness and fullness. In reality, they clog pores, hinder the skin's natural gas exchange, and hardly degrade in the environment — Cyclosiloxanes, in particular, are ecotoxicologically questionable. In the EU, Cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) are already restricted in wash-off products.
PEG Compounds
Recognizable by PEG- followed by a number: PEG-40, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate. Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are petroleum derivatives used as emulsifiers, solvents, or humectants. Taken alone, they are usually not very problematic — the real issue: They increase the permeability of the skin barrier, making it easier for other active ingredients (and harmful substances) to enter the body. Furthermore, they can be contaminated with impurities such as 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide, which arise during the manufacturing process.
Red Flags #4–6: Fragrance, Mineral Oils & Formaldehyde Releasers
These three are among the most common triggers of contact allergies in dermatology. At the same time, they are the ingredients where manufacturers can obscure the most.
Fragrance / Perfume
A single word on the ingredient list — and behind it, potentially dozens of chemical compounds are hidden. The EU only obliges manufacturers to list 26 known fragrance allergens by name if they are present in certain concentrations. The rest can be summarized under "Parfum" or "Fragrance". According to the German Dermatological Society, fragrance is one of the most common triggers of contact allergies overall. People with sensitive skin should generally avoid perfumed products.
Mineral Oils (MOSH/MOAH)
Recognizable as: Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Cera Microcristallina, Mineral Oil. Mineral oils are petroleum derivatives used as moisturizers and emollients. They are inexpensive, stable, and widely used — and short-term they show good results on the skin because they prevent evaporation. In the long term, however, they inhibit the natural skin function and quickly make the skin "dry" without the product. Furthermore, concerningly: Mineral oil aromatics (MOAH) are suspected of being carcinogenic. The German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) has commented on this several times.
Formaldehyde Releasers
Recognizable as: DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Quaternium-15, Bronopol. These compounds are used as preservatives and slowly release formaldehyde over time — a known skin sensitizer and carcinogen. Formaldehyde itself is banned in cosmetics; its releasers are not. The paradox: They do exactly what formaldehyde would do, just slower.
Red Flags #7–10: Sulfates, Triclosan, Nano-Particles & BHT/BHA
The last four red flags are found particularly in hair care products, toothpastes, deodorants, and anti-aging creams — precisely those categories where we particularly count on effectiveness.
Sulfates (SLS & SLES)
Recognizable as: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. Sulfates are aggressive surfactants responsible for the foam in shampoos, shower gels, and cleansers. SLS is so reactive that it is routinely used in laboratories to reliably induce contact dermatitis in study participants — as a positive control. On sensitive scalps or in cases of neurodermatitis, SLS can permanently damage the skin barrier and unbalance the pH value.
Triclosan
Recognizable as: Triclosan, occasionally as Irgasan or CH 3565. An antibacterial active ingredient that was previously widely used in toothpastes, soaps, and deodorants. The US FDA banned triclosan in wash products in 2016; the EU has limited its concentration in toothpastes to 0.3%. The problem: Triclosan is suspected of promoting the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria, affecting thyroid function, and harming ecosystems in water bodies. Still legal in Europe, but increasingly under pressure.
Nano-Particles
Recognizable by the addition [nano] after the ingredient name — mandatory in the EU since 2013. Nano-particles are substances whose particles are smaller than 100 nanometers. In sunscreens, they are used to make titanium dioxide and zinc oxide invisible. The risk: Nanoparticles can penetrate the skin barrier and enter deeper tissue layers. For respirable titanium dioxide (nano), the EU introduced a restriction as a Category 2 carcinogen in 2021 — it has been banned in spray products since then.
BHT & BHA
Recognizable as: BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene), BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole). Synthetic antioxidants used in fat-containing cosmetics to prevent rancidity. BHA is classified by the IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer) as a possible human carcinogen (Group 2B). Both are also considered endocrine disruptors and are persistent in the environment. The EU has initiated a risk assessment, but both substances are still legal and widespread.
Natural Cosmetics as a Clean Alternative
Certified natural cosmetics (e.g., according to NATRUE or COSMOS standard) categorically exclude all ten of the aforementioned substance groups. This is not a marketing statement, but a contractually agreed condition for the seal. But even without a seal, there are clear signs that a product is cleanly formulated:
- Short INCI list with recognizable plant names
- No endings like -paraben, -siloxane, -cone
- Preservation by natural substances such as Benzyl Alcohol (from jasmine), Salicylic Acid (from willow bark), or Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
- No "Fragrance" without additional individual listing of the fragrance components
- Fats, oils, and waxes of plant origin instead of Petrolatum
Traditional Moroccan beauty products are particularly consistent, having managed without synthetic additives for centuries — simply because they didn't exist when these products were developed. Rhassoul, Beldi soap, Kessa glove, Aker Fassi: These are formulations that have worked unchanged for generations. Not because they sound "natural", but because they are.
What Makes Moroccan Skincare Different
In traditional Moroccan hammams, the entire cleansing ritual consists of four ingredients: water, Beldi soap, Kessa glove, and Ghassoul. None of these ingredients contain parabens, silicones, PEGs, or sulfates. And this is no coincidence — it's the result of centuries of practical optimization.
Beldi soap (Savon Beldi) traditionally consists of black olives, water, and salt. It has a high pH value and softens the skin so that calluses can be easily removed — without permanently affecting the protective function. The INCI list of a genuine Beldi soap is often only three entries long.
Ghassoul is volcanic lava clay from the Atlas Mountains that uses electrostatic charge to bind dirt and excess oil without stripping the skin's natural lipids. No surfactants, no foam, no synthetic chemicals. The INCI name: Moroccan Lava Clay. That's it.
This simplicity stands in stark contrast to conventional products, which often require more ingredients for stabilization, preservation, and masking than for actual care. Once you learn to read INCI lists, you'll immediately see this difference.
Beldi Soap
Traditional Moroccan black soap — INCI list with only natural ingredients. Cleanses deeply without disturbing the skin barrier.
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Ghassoul Lava Clay
Pure Atlas clay — a single ingredient, zero additives. Cleanses face, scalp, and body through natural adsorption.
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Kessa Exfoliating Glove
100% viscose fiber — not a single ingredient on the INCI list because no chemicals are needed. Mechanical exfoliation without microplastics.
Discover nowFrequently Asked Questions about reading INCI lists
Are all synthetic ingredients dangerous?
No — not automatically. Many synthetic substances are well-researched and harmless. The question is always: How often do you use the product? Which skin area is it applied to? How long does it stay on the skin? A rinse-off product like shower gel is washed off after a few seconds — this significantly reduces exposure. For a day cream that you apply daily and wear for hours, different standards apply. Special caution is advised for children, pregnant women, and people with impaired skin barriers.
What does "natural" mean on cosmetic packaging?
Unfortunately, very little — the term is not legally protected and can be used by any manufacturer as they please. A product can have "natural" on the front and still list parabens, PEG compounds, and mineral oils in its INCI list. Reliable guidance is only offered by recognized certifications such as NATRUE, COSMOS Organic, or the German BDIH seal. These seals contractually mandate the absence of known problematic substances and are monitored by independent testing bodies.
How can I recognize genuine natural cosmetics without a seal?
Look at the INCI list and count the plant names: Do the majority of the ingredients sound like plants, minerals, or well-known natural substances? Are there no entries ending in -paraben, -siloxane, -cone? Is "Parfum" either not included at all or supplemented by specific individual fragrances? Is the list short and understandable? If you can answer yes to four out of five questions, you're on the right track. For absolute certainty, a recognized certification seal remains the most reliable method.
