Ingrown Hairs — Causes, Treatment, and Why Exfoliation is Key

What exactly are ingrown hairs?

About 60 percent of all people who regularly shave or epilate know the problem: small red bumps, occasionally with a visible hair underneath, sometimes inflamed, sometimes just annoyingly itchy. Ingrown hairs occur when a regrowing hair does not grow out through the skin's surface, but instead bends sideways and re-enters the skin — or doesn't emerge at all because the pore is clogged.

Medically, this is referred to as Pseudofolliculitis barbae — a term originally describing the shaving problem in the beard area, but now also used for legs, bikini line, armpits, and other body parts. The hair grows back into the skin in a U-shape or gets trapped under a layer of keratinized skin. The immune system reacts to this foreign body sensation with an inflammatory response — hence the redness and pustules.

The most common causes — and why shaving alone isn't to blame

Many people think that ingrown hairs are exclusively caused by shaving. This is not entirely true. Shaving exacerbates the problem, but it is rarely the sole cause. The combination of hair structure, skincare routine, and keratin build-up is crucial.

The three main causes at a glance:

• Skin keratinization (hyperkeratosis): When dead skin cells accumulate on the surface, they literally block the path of the regrowing hair. The hair cannot escape upwards and grows sideways or back into the skin.
• Curly or wavy hair structure: Strongly curved hairs tend to bend into the skin on their own as they regrow — especially in tight curves like the bikini area or the neck.
• Too tight clothing and friction: Synthetic fabrics and tight cuts push regrowing hairs inwards. Underwear and tights are particularly common contributors in the bikini area.
• Dry, unprepared skin when shaving: Shaving without adequate skin preparation cuts the hairs at an unfavorable angle. The resulting sharp end more easily penetrates the surrounding skin as it regrows.
• Lack of aftercare after hair removal: After shaving or epilating, the skin needs active care. Neglecting this promotes the keratinized layer that traps later hairs.

Who is particularly affected?

Ingrown hairs are not exclusively a female problem. Men struggle with them just as much — especially in the beard and neck area. Statistically, people with darker skin and naturally curly hair are more often affected, because the spiral hair structure promotes sideways ingrowth. But even people with fine, straight hair are not spared if their skincare routine is lacking.

Particularly vulnerable body areas are:

• Bikini line and groin area — close hair-skin contact, a lot of friction from clothing
• Lower legs and knees — thin skin, frequent shaving, dry spots
• Armpits — multi-directional hair growth, deodorant residue clogs pores
• Neck and chin (in men) — strong beard growth, daily shaving

Naturally treating ingrown hairs

You should not try to remove already ingrown hairs with your fingernails or tweezers — this further irritates the skin and opens wounds to bacteria. Instead, there are more effective and gentler methods.

1. Warmth and steam as a first measure
   Moisten the affected area with a warm, damp cloth for five to ten minutes. The warmth opens the pores and softens the keratinized layer — making it easier for the hair to reach the surface on its own.
2. Gentle exfoliation on the affected area
   Using a damp Kessa glove and circular motions, you remove the dead keratinized layer that holds the hair. Do not press hard — the skin in this area is already irritated. Once a day for two to three minutes is sufficient.
3. Free the hair — if visible
   If the hair is visible on the surface after exfoliation, you can gently grasp it with disinfected tweezers and guide it outwards. Do not pull it out — just release it. Then soothe the skin with a mild antiseptic or a few drops of tea tree oil.
4. Don't forget to moisturize afterwards
   After every exfoliation, the skin needs moisture. A light, non-comedogenic body oil or lotion soothes irritated skin and prevents the keratinized layer from rebuilding too quickly.
5. Avoid tight clothing as long as the area is red
   Friction on inflamed skin intensifies the reaction. Loose cotton clothing gives the skin time to calm down — especially in the bikini area and on the thighs.

Why regular exfoliation is the real key

Over 80 percent of people who exfoliate regularly report a significant reduction in ingrown hairs — not because exfoliation changes the hairs, but because it removes the obstacle. The dead keratinized layer is the problem. Consistently breaking it down clears the way for regrowing hair.

Many turn to chemical exfoliants with AHA or BHA acids. These are effective, but can lead to dryness and irritation in sensitive skin. The mechanical alternative — a good physical exfoliant — has the advantage that you immediately see and feel what you are doing, and can control the intensity yourself.

Exfoliation is particularly effective in combination with a good moisturizing routine. Dry skin keratinizes faster — that's a simple biological fact. Those who moisturize after exfoliating extend the window until the next necessary exfoliation and keep the skin more supple.

The Kessa Method: What Moroccan Hammam Culture Has Known for a Long Time

In traditional Moroccan hammams, Kessa exfoliation has been part of weekly body care for centuries — not as a luxury, but as a fundamental hygiene practice. The Kessa glove is a viscose woven glove with a slightly rough texture that mechanically removes dead skin cells from moistened skin. The result is visible: The first time, entire layers of dead skin roll off — sometimes after just a few minutes.

What Moroccan women intuitively knew can now be explained scientifically: Regular mechanical exfoliation prevents hyperkeratosis, keeps pores clear, and ensures that regrowing hairs encounter no resistance on the skin's surface. Not a single drugstore product achieves this effect as reliably as a simple, well-used Kessa glove.

How to use the Kessa glove correctly:

1. Soak skin for at least ten minutes
   Warm water or steam opens the pores and softens the keratinized layer. Shower or bathtub work — the important thing is that the skin is really thoroughly moistened, not just wet.
2. Put on dry Kessa glove, then place on wet skin
   The glove itself should not be wet — the friction comes from the contrast between the dry fabric and the moist skin. If the glove is wet, the Kessa material loses effectiveness.
3. Long, even strokes — don't rub
   Move in long, swift motions from bottom to top. Circular motions are suitable for more compact areas like knees or elbows. Avoid short rubbing on one spot — that irritates the skin without achieving more effect.
4. Two to three passes per body zone
   One pass is rarely enough the first time. Two to three passes over the same spot are sufficient — then rinse and, if necessary, treat with Beldi soap, which supports the exfoliating effect.
5. Rinse and moisturize immediately
   After exfoliation, the skin is receptive to care. Now is the optimal moment for a high-quality body oil or a moisturizing lotion — the skin absorbs active ingredients particularly well directly after exfoliation.

Permanent prevention — the right rhythm

Prevention is easier than treatment. If you want to get rid of ingrown hairs permanently, you don't need a complicated routine — but a consistent one. Here's a realistic weekly plan:

Many people notice a significant improvement after just two to three weeks of a consistent exfoliation routine. After six to eight weeks, the skin stabilizes in a new balance — the keratinization cycle slows down, and ingrown hairs become the exception rather than the rule.

Two other factors you shouldn't underestimate:

• Shaving direction: Always shave in the direction of hair growth, not against it. Against the grain gives a closer shave, but cuts the hair at an angle that promotes ingrown hairs.
• Epilating instead of shaving: Epilation removes the hair at the root — the regrowing hair has a softer, blunter tip and is less likely to penetrate the skin. In combination with regular exfoliation, epilation is one of the most effective long-term strategies.