EVARGANA · NATURAL COSMETICS · INGREDIENTS

Why Natural Products Are Better for You and the World

Parabens, silicones, mineral oils — what's really in conventional cosmetics? An honest look at ingredients, EU law, and the power of Moroccan natural recipes.

1.300+ EU-wide prohibited cosmetic substances
78% of Germans read product labels when buying
€12 billion natural cosmetics market in Europe by 2027

1. What's really in conventional cosmetics?

The average adult applies between 9 and 15 cosmetic products to their skin daily — toner, shower gel, shampoo, deodorant, cream, makeup. Most of these products contain dozens of ingredients, many of which are synthetic in origin or derived from petrochemicals.

This is not inherently dangerous — but the question of which substances accumulate permanently in our bodies, which ones weaken our skin barrier in the long term, and what ecological consequences their production has, is legitimate and important.

What many don't know: The European Union lists over 1,300 substances that are prohibited or restricted in cosmetics — far more than the USA (only ~11 prohibited substances). Nevertheless, many problematic ingredients legally make their way into products found in European drugstores.

The industry relies on cheap, stable, and easy-to-manufacture ingredients. This is economically understandable — but often not an optimal choice for your skin and the environment. Natural cosmetics take a different approach: they use what nature has developed over millennia.

2. The 6 most critical ingredients — and why they are problematic

Not all synthetic ingredients are equally problematic. But these six repeatedly appear in research — and for each of them, there is a natural, effective alternative.

Ingredient INCI Name Risk EVARGANA Alternative
Parabens Methylparaben, Propylparaben Hormone-disrupting, suspected of influencing estrogen levels Natural preservation with Vitamin E
Silicones Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone Pore-clogging, barely biodegradable in the environment — similar to microplastics Argan oil as a natural serum
PEG compounds PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Weaken the skin barrier, increase permeability to foreign substances Cold-pressed oils
Synthetic perfumes Parfum (unspecific) Allergy-triggering; 26 fragrances require declaration, many remain unknown Essential oils (Eucalyptus, Rose)
Microplastics Polyethylene, Nylon-12 Environmentally polluting, enters waterways, ingested by marine animals Kessa glove (mechanical exfoliation)
Mineral oils Paraffinum Liquidum Petroleum-based, forms occlusive layer without real nourishment, displaces moisture Argan oil, Beldi soap
When buying, simply scan the INCI list on the packaging for these terms. The higher an ingredient appears on the list, the higher its concentration in the product.

3. What natural cosmetics really mean

The term "natural cosmetics" is not legally protected in Germany — any manufacturer can use it as long as they are not actively deceiving. This leads to products with few plant-based ingredients being marketed as "natural."

True natural cosmetics vs. greenwashing

True natural cosmetics are characterized by the following features:

  • Plant-based raw materials from controlled cultivation or wild collection
  • No synthetic preservatives, perfumes, and colorants
  • Gentle processing that preserves active ingredients (cold pressing, gentle extraction)
  • Transparent INCI lists with recognizable botanical names
  • No animal testing
How to spot greenwashing: If a product advertises "with natural ingredients" but Paraffinum Liquidum or Dimethicone are among the first five INCI entries, that's a clear warning sign. The proportion of actual natural ingredients can be less than 1%.

Natural cosmetics according to recognized standards like COSMOS or NATRUE contain at least 95% natural or nature-identical ingredients — and this proportion is certified and regularly checked.

4. EU Regulation: What is allowed, what is forbidden?

The European Union has established one of the world's strictest legal frameworks for cosmetics with Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. This regulation applies directly in all EU member states — no national law needs to implement it first.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 — Key Points

  • Annex II: List of prohibited substances (1,300+) — including lead, mercury, many parabens in certain concentrations
  • Annex III: Restricted substances with maximum concentrations and conditions of use
  • Annex IV–VI: Approved colorants, preservatives, and UV filters
  • CPNP: Every cosmetic product must be registered in the EU's Cosmetic Products Notification Portal before being placed on the market
  • Responsible Person: A responsible person in the EU must be designated for each product

Overview of Certification Seals

Certifications voluntarily go beyond minimum legal requirements and offer consumers more reliable guidance:

  • COSMOS Standard (COSMOS Organic / COSMOS Natural): International standard jointly supported by BDIH, Cosmebio, Ecocert, ICEA, and Soil Association. Specifies the proportion of ingredients that must be of natural origin and how they may be processed.
  • NATRUE: European non-profit label with three levels (Natural Cosmetics, Natural Cosmetics with Organic Portion, Organic Natural Cosmetics). Prohibits all synthetic fragrances, colorants, and raw materials from petrochemical sources.
  • BDIH: Oldest German natural cosmetics seal, since 1996. Focus on plant-based ingredients, prohibition of synthetic oils and fats, colorants, and radionuclide treatment.
Even without a seal, a product can be high-quality natural cosmetics — just read the INCI list. But a recognized seal makes checking easier for you and protects against greenwashing.

5. Learning to read INCI: Green and red flags

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients — the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients. All cosmetic products sold in the EU must list their ingredients in this order (descending concentration).

With a little practice, you can assess within 30 seconds whether a product lives up to its promises — or whether it's greenwashing.

✅ Green Flags — good signs

  • Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil — real argan oil
  • Rosa Canina Fruit Oil — rosehip oil, rich in Vitamin C
  • Butyrospermum Parkii — shea butter from West Africa
  • Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice — real aloe vera juice
  • Tocopherol — natural Vitamin E (antioxidant)
  • Calendula Officinalis — marigold, anti-inflammatory

🚩 Red Flags — caution advised

  • Parfum — unspecific collective term, can contain hundreds of substances
  • …paraben (Methyl-, Propyl-, Butyl-) — synthetic preservatives
  • Dimethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane — silicones
  • PEG-… — polyethylene glycol compounds
  • Sodium Lauryl Sulfate — aggressive surfactant, damages skin barrier
  • Paraffinum Liquidum — liquid paraffin oil (mineral oil)
Rule of thumb: If you recognize the first five ingredients on the INCI list as plant names (in Latin or German), that's a very good sign. If they are mostly synthetic terms, the rest of the list is unlikely to make up the difference.

6. Morocco as the origin: Why traditional recipes work

Morocco is one of the few countries in the world where millennia-old cosmetic traditions have not only survived but are actively practiced. The Hammam culture, Berber women as guardians of healing recipes, and the unique ecosystem of the southwest have produced raw materials and methods that are now valued worldwide in modern natural cosmetics.

Argan oil — liquid gold from the UNESCO Biosphere

The argan tree (Argania spinosa) grows exclusively in southwestern Morocco, in a region protected as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve since 1998. The "Arganeraie" Biosphere Reserve covers over 2.5 million hectares and is home to approximately three million people.

The traditional extraction of argan oil is in the hands of Berber women's cooperatives: they harvest the fruits by hand, dry them, remove the husks, and cold-press the kernels — without heat, without solvents. This process preserves all valuable ingredients: Vitamin E (tocopherol), rare sterols, omega-6 fatty acids, and polyphenols.

Why this is important: Cold-pressed argan oil from cooperatives contains up to 7 times more tocopherol than industrially refined oil. And purchasing from cooperatives directly strengthens the economic independence of the women involved — a social added value that no synthetic silicone product can offer.

Beldi soap — centuries-old cleansing with olive oil

Black Moroccan soap (Savon Beldi) is one of the oldest cosmetic formulations in the Mediterranean region. Its base: olive oil and eucalyptus — both known since antiquity for their cleansing and antimicrobial properties.

Unlike modern shower gels, Beldi soap contains no sulfates, no synthetic foaming agents, and no preservatives. It cleanses with saponified olive oil, nourishes the skin with natural fatty acids, and prepares it for the next step of the hammam ritual: exfoliation.

Kessa — mechanical exfoliation instead of microplastic

The Kessa glove is the traditional exfoliating tool of the Moroccan hammam. It is made from a specially woven viscose fabric, whose texture gently removes dead skin cells when glided over damp skin — without chemical additives, without microplastic particles.

Application is incredibly simple: soak skin for 10–15 minutes with Beldi soap, then glide the Kessa glove over the skin in long strokes. The result is immediately visible — and almost always surprising the first time.

7. EVARGANA Products: What's in them — and what's not

At EVARGANA, every product originated from a simple question: Would we use this ourselves on our skin daily? The answer has shaped our product line.

No paraffin. No silicones. No synthetic perfumes. No parabens. Instead: direct collaboration with Moroccan women's cooperatives, cold-pressed raw materials, and traditional recipes that have worked for generations.

Kessa Glove

Traditionally woven exfoliating glove for the authentic hammam experience at home. Microplastic-free.

Discover now

Beldi Soap

Black olive oil soap with eucalyptus according to a centuries-old Moroccan recipe. SLS-free.

Discover now

View all EVARGANA products →

8. Your transition to natural cosmetics: Step by step

The switch to natural cosmetics doesn't have to happen overnight — and shouldn't. A gradual transition gives your skin time to adapt and you time to truly get to know the products.

  • Practice label reading
    Take an existing product from your bathroom and look for the red flags from section 5. This will sharpen your awareness and show you where you truly stand — without having to change anything immediately.
  • Transition gradually — not all at once
    First, replace a product that is least important to you. Learn how your skin reacts. Natural cosmetics often work differently than synthetic products — sometimes slower, but more sustainably.
  • Start with cleansing
    The cleansing product is the first thing that goes on your skin — and what rinses off the most. This is where the change is most easily noticeable. Swap shower gel or cleansing foam for Beldi soap.
  • Then replace your moisturizer
    Replace your day or night cream with a high-quality plant-based oil — e.g., pure argan oil. A few drops are enough. Your skin doesn't need a film, but genuine nourishment.
  • Change your exfoliant
    Replace exfoliating products with polyethylene (microplastics) with the Kessa glove. Mechanical exfoliation with moistened skin is not only more environmentally friendly — it works better.
  • Don't forget sun protection
    Mineral sunscreen (with Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide) is gentler on the skin and ecologically less concerning than chemical UV filters. This step may require more research — take your time.
  • Patience: 4 weeks for skin adjustment
    Your skin renews itself approximately every 28 days. If you notice temporary irregularities after the change, this is often a natural adjustment phase — not a sign that the product isn't suitable. Stick with it for 4 weeks before making a judgment.
Keep a short skin diary. Note how your skin reacts daily. This will help you identify patterns and understand what truly works — and what doesn't.

Frequently asked questions

Is more expensive natural cosmetics always better?

No — price is not a reliable indicator of quality. There are affordable natural cosmetics with excellent INCI lists and expensive products with questionable ingredients. What truly matters is what's inside. Look for recognized certifications like COSMOS or NATRUE, read the INCI list, and check if the manufacturer communicates transparently about origin and processing. At EVARGANA, you can view the complete ingredient list for every product — because we believe transparency is not a luxury.

How do I recognize genuine natural cosmetics?

The safest way: read the INCI list. Botanical names (Latin) in the first five positions are a good sign. Recognizable certification seals like COSMOS Organic, NATRUE, or BDIH provide additional security because they are regularly checked by independent bodies. Be wary of products that may bear "natural" or "organic" in their name but list Paraffinum Liquidum, Dimethicone, or PEG compounds high up in the INCI list — this is a classic greenwashing pattern.

Why do natural cosmetic products smell different from conventional ones?

Because they use real essential oils and natural aroma extracts instead of synthetic fragrances. Synthetic perfumes are designed to smell long-lasting, intense, and always the same — for this, up to 200 individual substances are mixed, many of which do not have to be declared under the collective term "Parfum." Natural fragrances like eucalyptus oil or rose hydrosol smell different, sometimes more subtle — but they are authentic, subject to declaration, and usually better tolerated by allergy sufferers. In the Kessa ritual with Beldi soap, the eucalyptus scent is a real experience, not a laboratory construct.

Prime example of natural cosmetics: Aker Fassi
Aker Fassi — the traditional Moroccan lip powder made from dried poppy petals and pomegranate — embodies exactly that: no synthetic pigments, no parabens, no silicones. Just pure nature. Read the full Aker Fassi Guide →

Start your natural cosmetics ritual

Discover the complete EVARGANA collection — Moroccan natural cosmetics without compromise. Transparent in ingredients, sustainable in origin.

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Evargana Marokkanische Naturkosmetik Deutschland

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