Khol — Traditional Eye Powder from North Africa and its Centuries-Old History

5,000 Years of History — Khol Through the Ages

Archaeologists found alabaster bowls filled with fine black powder – khol – in Egyptian tombs dating back to 3100 BC. This eye powder is thus one of humanity's oldest documented cosmetics and is still used daily in North Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and the Middle East.

In ancient Egypt, men, women, and children alike wore khol. At that time, the main reason was not aesthetic, but practical: the intense black around the eyes reflected the dazzling desert sun, protected against insects and dust — and was also considered a ward against the evil eye. The concept of the apotropaic eye is found in almost every culture in the region, from Egypt to Morocco to Yemen.

In Islamic culture, khol became known as Ithmid. According to tradition, the Prophet Muhammad recommended applying khol made from stibnite due to its strengthening effect on the eyes. In Morocco, this tradition has remained vibrant: for weddings, in hammams, and as a daily ritual, the small metal container with the black powder is standard equipment.

What is Khol? Composition and Production

True traditional khol consists of galena (lead sulfide, PbS) or stibnite (antimony sulfide, Sb₂S₃) — depending on the region and origin. In Morocco, the most common traditional khol is called Ithmid, a natural mineral from the Atlas regions, which is ground into an ultra-fine powder.

The manufacturing process is artisanal and time-consuming: raw mineral pieces are cleaned, ground in stone mortars, passed through fine sieves, and ground again until the powder achieves a velvety, almost talcum-like consistency. Real khol can be rubbed between the fingers without scratching — an important quality characteristic.

• Ithmid-Khol (Antimony): deep black, velvety, traditionally from Morocco and Syria
• Galena-Khol (Lead): gray-black, historically widespread, less recommended today
• Charcoal-based Khol: made from burnt materials (almonds, cork wood), intensely black

EVARGANA Khol exclusively uses tested Ithmid powder without synthetic additives, preservatives, or heavy metals exceeding EU limits — filled in the classic metal container with an included applicator stick.

The Effect of Khol: More Than Just Beauty

A study by the University of Bordeaux, published in 2010 in the journal Analytical Chemistry, examined ancient Egyptian khol samples and found that certain lead compounds, in very low concentrations, stimulate the production of nitric oxide (NO) in skin cells — a molecule that activates the immune system and has antibacterial effects. A paradox that sheds new light on ancient applications.

For Ithmid-Khol (antimony-based), the following properties are well-documented:

• Antibacterial: Antimony inhibits the growth of various bacterial strains that can cause eye infections
• Anti-inflammatory: In Moroccan folk medicine, khol is used for conjunctivitis and styes
• UV protection: The deep black absorbs a portion of UV radiation — which is why desert dwellers wore khol during the day
• Eyelash care: Traditionally, khol is also applied to the eyelashes in Morocco to strengthen and nourish them

Aesthetically, khol creates a depth that no modern eyeliner can replicate. The finely ground mineral spreads evenly around the eye, creating a smoky look and lasting for hours without bleeding.

Correct Application: Applying Khol Like in Morocco

Applying khol is a gesture passed down through generations in Morocco. Typically, the grandmother sits in front of her granddaughter, dips the metal stick into the powder, and draws a single, steady line along the inner waterline of the eye. This technique has changed little over thousands of years.

1. Prepare the stick: Carefully dip the applicator into the khol powder. You need very little — real khol is highly pigmented. Rotate the stick slightly to pick up powder evenly.
2. Align the eye: Look up or half-close your eye. Gently pull down the lower lid. The applicator is applied to the inside of the lower lid (waterline) — not on the outer edge of the lid.
3. Apply: Guide the stick in a soft, flowing motion from the inner to the outer corner of the eye. A single even stroke is enough for an intense result.
4. Blend (optional): For a smoky look, gently blend the khol with your ring finger or a cotton swab. Khol is naturally soft and excellent for creating a smoky effect.
5. Repeat: Apply khol to both eyes. In Morocco, it is often also applied to the upper lid, near the lash line — for a more intense gaze.

Khol and Safety: What You Need to Know

The safety discussion surrounding khol primarily revolves around one point: lead. Historic and unregulated khol products from certain regions contained galena (lead sulfide) in concerning amounts — particularly problematic for children. Some studies documented elevated lead levels in the blood of children who regularly used traditional lead-containing khol.

For adults using tested Ithmid-khol, the product is considered safe according to current knowledge. For babies and toddlers, we recommend — contrary to North African tradition — refraining from using khol.

Khol vs. Kajal vs. Eyeliner: The Crucial Difference

In German drugstores and online shops, khol, kajal, and Kohl are consistently used synonymously — this is misleading. The three products differ fundamentally in composition, texture, and application technique.

This also explains the different wearing comfort: Real khol feels less waxy, blends more freely, and sits differently on the waterline than a wax pencil. After a short adjustment period, many users report that they wouldn't go back.