The Greenwashing Test — 7 Questions You Should Ask Every Natural Cosmetics Manufacturer

The Problem with "Natural"

"Natural" is not a protected term in EU cosmetics regulation. A product can be marketed as "natural" if it contains a single plant ingredient — the rest can consist of synthetic silicones, mineral oil, and preservatives. This is not a marginal phenomenon: a 2023 study by the German consumer protection association Foodwatch found that 68% of body care products advertised as "natural" in the German market contain synthetic main ingredients.

Greenwashing in the cosmetics industry is a multi-billion dollar business. The global "Natural Beauty" category is growing at 8–12% annually — which means conventional cosmetic companies have massive incentives to re-label their existing products without changing formulas. For you as a consumer, this means: trust is not a sufficient foundation. Knowledge is.

The 7 Greenwashing Test Questions

You can ask these questions directly to manufacturers — by email, on social media, or in stores. The quality and responsiveness of the answers often say more than the answer itself.

• 1
  What percentage of the ingredients are actually of natural origin — according to INCI proportion, not marketing promises?
  A reputable manufacturer will give you a specific percentage (e.g., "95% natural origin according to ISO 16128") and explain how it is calculated. Evasive answers like "we are as natural as possible" are a red flag.
• 2
  Where do your main raw materials come from — and do you have direct relationships with the producers?
  Supply chain transparency is difficult but not impossible. Manufacturers who have direct relationships with raw material producers know the answer. Those who buy through intermediaries often don't — and they should admit it instead of inventing.
• 3
  Which preservatives do you use — and why?
  Preservation in cosmetics is necessary and not a problem per se. It becomes problematic when brands use synthetic preservatives and at the same time claim to be "preservative-free" by using other designations (e.g., phenoxyethanol instead of paraben). Legitimate options: rosemary extract, tocopherol, benzoic acid from natural sources.
• 4
  Is your product cruelty-free — and what exactly does that mean to you?
  "Cruelty-free" is also unregulated. Some brands do not test themselves but commission third parties to do so. Others sell in China, where animal testing for certain imported cosmetics was legally required (regulations partially changed in 2021). Ask: Do you sell in China? Do you test through third parties?
• 5
  Why is your product so cheap — or so expensive?
  Real Ghassoul from the Atlas costs more in raw material than Chinese substitute clay. Real argan oil costs more than sunflower oil with an argan scent. If a "natural cosmetic product" is significantly cheaper than comparable genuine natural products, it's worth asking about the raw material sources.
• 6
  What packaging do you use — and is there data on the actual recycling rate?
  "Recyclable" does not mean "will be recycled." Dark HDPE plastics are not sortable in many German municipalities. Glass is recycled but increases the CO₂ footprint due to weight. Refill solutions or paper packaging are often more honest than complex "eco-design" plastic bottles.
• 7
  What would change in your product if you replaced all synthetic ingredients?
  This question is revealing. If the answer is "nothing really" — then why are they in there? If the answer is honest ("shelf life would decrease," "texture would change"), it shows that the brand understands its formulas and isn't throwing smoke bombs.

What Certifications Really Say

Certifications are not worthless — but they are also not a guarantee. Here's an honest overview:

Learning to Read Ingredients

The INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is legally required and lists all ingredients in descending order by weight. The first five ingredients typically make up 80–95% of the product. Here are the most important signals:

Signals for genuine natural cosmetics in the INCI list:

• Plant oils are listed early (e.g., Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil)
• Plant names in Latin with specific plant designation (Lavandula Angustifolia instead of vague "herb extract")
• Water (Aqua) as a base is normal and not a problem
• Short lists with recognizable ingredients

Warning signs in the INCI list:

• Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Mineral Oil — mineral oil derivatives
• Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Siloxane — silicones
• PEG compounds (e.g., PEG-40) — synthetic emulsifiers
• Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone — aggressive preservatives
• "Parfum" without further specification — can contain hundreds of synthetic compounds

Origin Information and Supply Chains

Moroccan natural cosmetics — argan oil, ghassoul, Beldi soap, Aker Fassi — have experienced a global boom in recent years. This has a downside: there are significant quantities of products on the market that promise "Moroccan argan oil" or "real ghassoul" but actually contain raw materials from other sources or use Moroccan processing only as marketing.

Specific questions about origin you can ask:

• In which region of the Atlas is your ghassoul mined?
• Is your argan oil cold-pressed in a Moroccan women's cooperative?
• Do you have a direct partnership with producers — or do you buy through intermediaries?
• How much do you pay for a kilo of raw material — and how much of that goes to the producers?

What Makes EVARGANA Different

We are a small brand, and transparency is not a marketing tool for us — it's a necessity because we don't have the resources for anything else. Our products come from direct supplier relationships in Morocco. This specifically means:

• Our ghassoul is mined in the Middle Atlas and delivered directly to us — no intermediaries blurring the origin
• Our Beldi soap is handcrafted by a Moroccan family business that has been producing for three generations
• We have no certification — not because we don't want it, but because the costs are prohibitive for our size. Instead: complete INCI lists, origin information, and direct answers to your questions